Dryer repair in King City
Almost every dryer call we take in King City starts
with one of these four. Under each are the causes our techs find once the back panel is off. Tell us which one
matches and we'll bring the right parts.
Two or three cycles for one load of
towels is the call we take most. The drum turns and the timer runs, but the heat or the airflow is missing.
-
Blocked vent duct
Lint builds up in the duct
between the dryer and the outside wall until damp air can't escape. Long runs in two-storey homes clog
faster, and so does a flap frozen shut in January.
-
Burnt-out heating element or gas igniter
No heat at all usually means
the element has failed on an electric dryer, or the igniter or gas valve coil has gone on a gas model.
-
Failed thermostat or thermal fuse
These cut the heat when the
dryer runs too hot, and they often blow because of a blocked vent. We replace the part and find out what
tripped it.
Check this first: Go outside and hold your hand near the vent
hood while the dryer runs. Weak or cool air means the duct, not the dryer, is the problem.
Thumping, squealing or a scrape on
every turn means something inside is worn. These parts are usually cheap, but ignoring them can damage the
drum.
-
Worn drum rollers or glides
The drum rides on rollers or
plastic glides. As they flatten out you get a rumble or thump that follows the rhythm of the drum.
-
Stretched or fraying belt
A squeal that rises with the
drum, or a belt that finally snaps so the motor hums but nothing turns.
-
Something in the blower wheel
Coins and buttons slip past
the lint filter and rattle around the blower housing. It sounds alarming and is usually a quick fix.
Check this first: Check the pockets and the lint trap first. A
coin sitting in the blower makes a noise far worse than the repair it needs.
A dryer that quits mid-cycle, or
won't restart until it has sat for an hour, is usually protecting itself from overheating.
-
Overheating from restricted airflow
When hot air can't get out,
the safety thermostat cuts power. It restarts once things cool down, then trips again on the next load.
-
Failing motor
A motor with worn bearings
gets hot and stops. Give it an hour and it runs again, which is why people often blame the timer
instead.
-
Door switch or control board
A switch that no longer
registers a closed door, or a board that drops the cycle, can also stop a dryer without warning.
Check this first: Clean the lint filter after every load and
check the duct behind the dryer for a crushed or kinked section.
Lint burns easily, and dryers cause a
real share of home fires in Ontario every year. A few signs are worth acting on right away.
-
A hot or burning smell
Stop the cycle and unplug the
dryer, or shut off the gas on a gas model. Don't run it again until someone has looked at it.
-
The outside of the dryer gets very hot
Heat that should be leaving
through the vent is staying inside the cabinet, which usually points to a badly blocked duct.
-
Clothes come out hot but still damp
A classic sign that moist air
has nowhere to go. The load holds the heat while the water stays put.
Check this first: Never vent a dryer into the house or a crawl
space, and skip the flexible foil hose. Rigid or semi-rigid metal duct is the safer choice.
