Washing machine repair in King City
Most washer calls in King come down to the same four symptoms. Below each one are the causes our techs usually find when they open the machine up. Tell us which sounds like yours and we'll know what to bring.
Water left in the drum at the end of a cycle, or a machine that stops partway and refuses to spin, usually points to the drain side.
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Blocked pump filter
Coins, hair ties and baby socks end up in the pump filter, usually behind a small door at the bottom front of a front loader. Once it's packed, water can't get out.
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Failed drain pump
If the filter is clear and you hear a hum but no water moving, the pump motor may have quit. We test it before we replace it.
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Kinked or clogged drain hose
Pushing the washer back against the wall can fold the hose behind it. In older homes, the standpipe it drains into can clog as well.
Check this first: Find the pump filter in your manual and lay towels down before opening it. Even a washer that looks empty can hold a surprising amount of water in there.
Some movement on a fast spin is normal. A washer that thumps, walks across the floor or sounds like a drum kit is telling you something.
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Worn suspension or shocks
These hold the tub steady. When they wear out, the tub swings and knocks against the cabinet on every spin.
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Drum bearings going
A rumble that gets louder as the spin speeds up is the classic bearing sound. It gets worse with every load, so it's worth a call sooner rather than later.
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Washer not level
Basement floors in older King homes aren't always flat. One short leg is enough to make a front loader dance.
Check this first: Run a small load with a few towels. If it spins quietly, the trouble may be how the drum was loaded rather than a broken part.
Where the water shows up tells you a lot. The front of the machine, the back and underneath all point to different parts.
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Torn door seal on a front loader
The rubber gasket around the door can split or trap a sock in its fold. Water then drips out the front during the wash.
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Inlet hoses behind the machine
Rubber supply hoses get brittle with age. A cracked one can leak slowly for weeks or let go all at once, so they're worth checking whenever the washer is pulled out.
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Pump or tub seal
Water underneath with no obvious source often means a leaking pump or a worn tub seal. We track it down with the panels off.
Check this first: Too much soap can foam out of the door and look exactly like a leak. HE machines only need a small amount of HE detergent.
A washer that's dead, blinking an error code or holding your clothes hostage behind a locked door is one of the most frustrating calls we take.
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Door lock or lid switch
The washer won't run unless it knows the door is shut. When the lock or switch fails, it either won't start or won't let go at the end.
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Control board or display
A blank screen, or an error code that comes back after every reset, often traces to the board. We read the code and test the board before quoting it.
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Water inlet valve
If the washer starts but never fills, or fills painfully slowly, the valve that lets water in may be blocked or worn out. Around here, sediment from well water is often part of the story.
Check this first: Unplug the washer for a full minute, then plug it back in. That resets the controls and sometimes frees a stuck lock.
